On the left is the photo currently being processed. Consistency is key The screenshot below is of Helicon Focus. If the focus jumps backwards and forwards rather than in a straight line, Helicon Focus will throw a hissy fit, tell me off and go on strike. On the bottom one, I had to leave a 1-2pixel wide gap, as that was an area for which I had no photo where it was in focus. It also needs to have the focus moving in one direction from the first to the last photo. The technique involves taking several to many photos. The only way I was able to manually blend them together was by the use of the sky, as that is same in both photos. Its frequently impossible to get enough depth of field when focusing on a subject very close to the lens. The corners of the glass wall, are much thiner when in focus. You can see this in this example photo I took in Dubai from Burj Khalifa. So blending it just in is not always that simple. You will quickly notice, that if someting is in the foreground, and out of focus, it is bigger, than if it is in focus. Especially when the area of focus is quite different. When combining only two exposures, doing it manually is mostly the way to go. There are also different software, that can control your camera from a pc or a phone (check out the Helicos Focus), and if you have the Magic lantern firmware, you can do it directly in the camera. For instance the Promote remote can take photos for focus stacking automatically, you set it up for how many shots you want. If you want to be exactly precise or are doing macro shots, the best way to go is having a special remote, that can do this for you. If you are taking more than two shots, do the refocusing just by rotating the focus wheel a little towards infinity, or near focus (based on where you started) and repeat until you have the whole range. To take the shots, just start by focusing either on the background or the foreground, take the shots in full manual mode, and then without changing anything else, refocus on the the next part of the scene. If the transition is much harsher, as the difference between the foreground and the background is bigger, you will need more exposures, and blend them automatically. If it is in the sky, water or any other continuous transition, you will be OK with just two exposures that you can then blend manually. It all depends where the blending transition will be. The number of needed exposure at different focus, depends on what you are taking photos off. Secondly, you want to be 100% sure where the camera is focused, and this is just not possible with autofocus. So setting it up for one, and than just keeping it the same is the simplest way to archive this. ![]() First of all you need to have the same exposure for all the shots. For focus blending exposures, I really suggest going with full manual.
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